The panade recipe in The Zuni Cafe Cookbook got here to my consideration when a buddy baked an exquisite double-version of it in an over-sized AGA dutch oven and served it at a cocktail party years in the past. It was the show-stopping centerpiece of a meal flanked by an exquisite winter inexperienced + chicory salad and gem-shaded glasses of wine. The mix of effervescent cubes of brothy bread and caramelized onions silkily merging with molten threads of cheese is knee-buckling. It’s the proper instance of a brief listing of the only components coming collectively into one thing way more than then sum of their elements.
I’ve baked variations of this panade within the years since, and it by no means disappoints. It’s endlessly adaptable, which means that you would be able to add seasonal components to fit your fancy. For instance, in my case, I do a vegetarian model by switching up the broth, and I like my onions on the caramelized aspect of the spectrum. I’ll add no matter sautéed greens or roasted greens I’ve round. Judy additionally listed a variety of concepts and variations within the cookbook, so when you’ve got it (and you must!) be sure you have a look at these for year-round inspiration. Her unique had chard. I exploit numerous scallions in mine. In brief, it’s a type of IYKYK recipes. Molly Wizenberg knew what was up method again in 2005 when she wrote in regards to the Judy panade recipe right here. 

I’m going to dive in and reply a lot of questions right here that may pop up. The ingredient listing for this panade couldn’t be less complicated, however the satan is within the particulars and navigating private preferences.

What Form of Bread for this Panade?

The quick reply is an effective, chewy artisan sourdough loaf. That stated, I can even argue that plenty of that is private desire. Should you bake sourdough at residence, by all means, use that. Both of these alternative will possible lead to a properly structured panade with good distinction between among the elements. The bread alternative is such an enormous deal on this recipe, each will impression your finish outcome immensely. I discovered the arduous method after I used a extra business sourdough loaf to make the panade one evening – a lot finer crumb, much less/no chewiness, and I’m guessing it was 100% all-purpose flour. The ensuing panade broke down too far, into an unstructured stoop. You need the bread to place up a battle and maintain a little bit of stress. Not go to mush altogether. One of the best model I’ve made was with a loaf of day-old do-it-yourself sourdough made with wild rice in it. 

Crust or no Crust?

There are arguments for each. The panade right here retained the crust on the bread cubes. However I’ve completed crustless variations earlier than. Should you resolve you’re keen on an excellent oozy, silky panade, go crustless. Should you like your panade to have extra construction, hold your crust. Or go 50/50!

What’s the Finest Broth for Panade?

We have a tendency to make use of no matter good-tasting broth we’ve got round or within the freezer (defrost). I really like an herby broth for this scallion and chive model, however if you happen to’re in a pinch seize a bouillon dice or two and go from there. Judy makes use of a hen broth in her recipe (which doesn’t work for vegetarians), however I’ve had nice outcomes with mushroom broth, and corn broth together with roasted cherry tomatoes and goat cheese within the panade. I’ve even used spicy bean broth.

Can I exploit a Totally different Cheeses on this Panade?

You may! I name for Gruyere, however point out within the headnote that certainly one of my favourite variations ended up being a mix of Gruyere, Parmesan, and Pecorino cheeses. I desire barely assertive cheeses for the panade, with at the least a portion being a cheese that oozes when melted. For instance, I wouldn’t attain for a mozzarella – too gentle.

Can I Make this Forward of Time?

I typically make the caramelized onions forward of time. After which some other fillings that I’d have the ability to pre-roast. 

Soupy versus Dry-ish Panades

Once more, that is private desire. After you bake panade a few times you’ll begin to get a way of what type you like. You may go the soup-is route by including extra broth. Or lean into extra of a stuffing vibe with much less broth. The recipe under goals to hit the mark the place the panade is transitioning from a stuffing-like texture, into silkier magic, not-yet-in-soup territory.

This recipe is a warming, hearty, winter hotter. It appears so rustic, however the silkiness down within the depths is what’s extremely shocking. It’s the last word consolation dish that I hope you take pleasure in as a lot as I’ve over time. Because of Jamie & Chanda & Bonni for our SF panade dinners, we miss them (and also you) a lot!

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